Are you thinking about getting a corn snake? That’s an awesome choice! Corn snakes are like the golden retrievers of the reptile world - they’re well-loved, easy to care for, friendly yet lively, very resilient, and downright beautiful. Whether you’re planning to bring home one of these slithery friends or you already have one and want to make sure you’re doing things right, this corn snake care guide is just what you need.
About Corn Snake
Corn snakes (Pantherophis guttatus), are non-venomous, semi-arboreal snakes native to North America. They got their name because they often hunt mice in cornfields. These nocturnal creatures are most active at dawn and dusk.
With their slender bodies, oval heads, and round pupils, corn snakes come in a variety of colors and patterns, including orange, red, brown, white, black, and yellow. When they hatch, they measure about 10-15 inches (25-38 cm) but can grow to 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 m) by the time they reach 2 years old. With proper care, corn snakes can live for 15-20 years. That’s why you need this guide for their upkeep.
Enclosure Setup
Just like our apartments, corn snakes need a cozy and safe home. But it’s important to remember that they are solitary animals and should be kept alone.
Enclosure Size
Swiss Reptile Husbandry Standards recommend that the minimum enclosure size for a corn snake is (0.7 x snake length) x (0.5 x snake length) x 2 feet/60 cm. This means that if your corn snake is expected to reach 4 feet in length, its enclosure should be at least 3 x 2 x 2 feet. If you’re still uncertain, remember that a bigger enclosure is always better.

Enclosure Type
A front-opening glass terrarium with a mesh lid is the best choice for corn snakes. These guys love to climb, and a mesh top lets you set up heating and light outside the terrarium, which is much safer. You also need to make sure there are no gaps or holes in the terrarium, as corn snakes can be great escape artists.
Substrate
The best bedding for corn snakes are aspen shavings because they’re absorbent, soft, and perfect for burrowing. Alternatives like newspaper or reptile carpet can work too. Avoid cedar and pine, as they’re toxic, and steer clear of sand, which can cause blockages if swallowed.
Heating
Corn snakes are cold-blooded, meaning they rely on a thermal gradient in enclosure to regulate their body temperature. To create a suitable habitat, the warm side should be maintained at 85-90°F (29-32°C) and the cool side should be around 70-75°F (21-24°C). Using a ceramic lamp heater or an under-tank heater (UTH) paired with an INKBIRD thermostat like the ITC-306T can help you automatically control the temperature, preventing overheating or burns.

Lighting
Like many other animals, corn snakes need to be exposed to adequate UV light to maintain their health. Low-wattage UVB bulbs with a UV index of about 2-3 work well for them. It’s best to keep the lights on for about 12 hours a day, and then turn all of them off at night to create a completely dark environment. This routine helps your pets establish a clear day and night cycle.
Humidity
Corn snakes thrive in humidity levels between 60% and 75%. This moisture is essential for their respiratory health, aids in shedding, and stays hydrated. You can either mist their habitat twice a day or set up a mister to operate for a short time at night. My personal favorite is to use an INKBIRD humidity controller with the mister so that the humidity is always at the ideal value.
Decoration
Corn snakes need at least two hiding spots in their enclosure, one should be on the warm side and the other on the cool side. You can use materials like logs, plastic hides, or cork bark. Additionally, incorporating branches or artificial plants will provide them with opportunities to climb and stay active. If you want their enclosure more natural, consider add some moss and rocks, but remember to replace the moss regularly to avoid mold growth.
Cleaning
We recommend cleaning your corn snake enclosure as often as possible - spot clean the enclosure daily to remove any feces or shed skin, and perform a complete cleaning every 1-2 months, including a complete substrate change.
When cleaning the enclosure, you should take out your pet and all decorations, then scrub the empty tank and all accessories with a 3% bleach solution. After rinsing with clean water and letting it dry, you can add fresh substrate and bring your corn snake back to its home.

Feeding Guide
Like most snakes, corn snakes are also carnivorous. You need to provide them with a diet as nutritionally balanced as possible.
Diet
Corn snakes feed on thawed whole frozen rodents like mice and rats. Yup, that’s it. The mouse should be roughly the same diameter as the thickest part of your snake’s body. You can also add quail, quail eggs, or geckos to increase their diet variety. Never feed live prey, as this may harm your snake.
Feeding Frequency
Baby snakes should be fed every 5-7 days, while adult snakes should be fed every 10-14 days. If fed too much, they may become overweight.
Water
Always provide your snake with a bowl of clean, fresh water in a large, heavy bowl in the cool side. Clean the bowl every few days or whenever it looks dirty.
Handling
Newly hatched corn snakes are naturally nervous and defensive. Once you bring your new pet home, give it some time to adjust, which typically takes around two weeks. After you’ve successfully fed it three or four times, you can start to handle it. Remember to approach from the side rather than from above, and lift it gently but confidently. It’s best to handle your corn snake once or twice a week, but limit it to no more than once a day. Always wash your hands after handling, as they can carry infectious diseases like salmonella.

Shedding
Corn snakes typically shed their skin about once a month as they grow, but healthy adults usually shed only a few times a year. Before shedding, their eyes will turn a milky blue or green, and their skin will be dull. This is normal! During this time, you snakes can be a bit cranky, so avoid handling them.
To assist with shedding, keep the humidity slightly higher. If your snake struggles to shed, a soak in a shallow container of lukewarm water can help.
Health
Corn snakes are generally healthy when kept in a good environment and fed well. However, if you notice any of the following symptoms in them, you should be very careful and consult a reptile veterinarian as soon as possible:
- Wheezing
- Open-mouth breathing
- Nasal discharge
- Scale discoloration or decay
- Blisters
- Mites
- Loss of appetite
- Regurgitation
FAQs
Are corn snakes venomous?
No, corn snakes are not venomous. They are constrictors, which means they subdue their prey by wrapping around it and squeezing.
Are corn snakes friendly?
'Friendly' is a subjective term, but yes, corn snakes are generally considered to be docile and non-aggressive. With regular, gentle handling, they can become quite comfortable with being held and interacted with. However, every snake is an individual, and some may be more skittish than others. Consistent interaction is key to building trust.
How big do corn snakes get?
Adult corn snakes typically reach 3 to 5 feet in length. Females often grow slightly larger than males. While this might seem long, they are relatively slender snakes, making them manageable to handle and house.
How long do corn snakes live?
Corn snakes can live surprisingly long when properly cared for, typically living between 15 to 20 years in captivity. In the wild, their life expectancy drops to about 6 to 8 years.
Do corn snakes bite?
Any animal with a mouth can bite! That said, bites from corn snakes are usually mild and feel more like a pinch. They are unlikely to bite unless they feel threatened or are mistaken for food. Consistent handling and proper feeding practices can minimize the risk of getting bitten.