Ball pythons are one of the most popular pets in the reptile hobby community. Unlike most other snakes, they are docile, adaptable, easy to care for, and non-venomous. These snakes are semi-arboreal nocturnal animals that are particularly active at dawn and dusk. Their hunting method is so captivating - they ambush their prey, then chase it down, and use their strong muscles to constrict it until it passes out.
In the wild, ball pythons are most commonly found near semi-arid grasslands, forests, and agricultural areas, so create a similar habitat in their enclosure can help increase ball python lifespan and their life quality. If you’re thinking about getting a ball python or upgrading to a new enclosure, be sure to read our guidelines for setting up a ball python enclosure, including size, humidity, temperature, lighting, and substrate.
Enclosure Size
It is a common misconception that ball pythons do not need much living space, but they actually require enough room to fully stretch out and climb. Baby ball pythons are about 10 inches long, while adult males usually range from 2 to 3 feet, and mature females can be even bigger, averaging 3 to 5 feet.
According to the latest recommendations released by the Federation of Herpetologists, ball python enclosure should be at least 0.9 x 0.45 x 0.3 times the snake’s length. So, for a 3-foot ball python, you’d need an enclosure of at least 2.7 x 1.35 x 0.9 feet, which is about 25 gallons. However, it’s better to give your ball python more space since they love to climb.
Also, we do not recommend keeping multiple ball pythons in one enclosure as they’re solitary creatures and can get stressed or fight.
Humidity
For ball pythons in captivity, the sweet spot for humidity is 50%-60%. If it gets too humid, it can lead to skin or respiratory issues. However, when they shed, the humidity can be raised to 70%-75% to help them shed their old outer skin more easily.
We recommend using at least a 4-inch layer of moisture-retaining substrate like peat moss or wet paper towels to keep the enclosure moist. And you should also prepare a humid hide filled with moss to make them feel comfortable and safe.
Place a hygrometer in the enclosure to monitor the humidity levels and adjust your misting routine in the morning and evening according. Alternatively, set up a humidity controller with a small humidifier to maintain the appropriate balance automatically.
Temperature
Ball python enclosures, like those for leopard geckos, also need a temperature gradient for proper body temperature regulation. Even though ball pythons are primarily nocturnal, they occasionally bask outdoors during the day to promote digestion and metabolism. If the temperature isn’t ideal, they might refuse to eat. Here are the ideal temperatures for ball pythons:
- Basking surface temperature: 95°F-104°F (35°C-40°C)
- Warm side temperature: 88°F-92°F (31°C-33°C)
- Cool side temperature: 75°F-80°F (24°C-27°C)
- Night temperature: 70°F-78°F (21°C-26°C)
Some people may choose to use a heating pad at the bottom of the enclosure since snakes enjoy basking on warm surfaces such as rocks and roads. However, this also greatly increases the risk of burns from prolonged basking.
For me, I prefer using heat lamps, and my reptiles seem to love. If your enclosure is large, you may need more than one heat lamp. Whichever method you use, it’s wise to connect them to a thermostat to keep the temperature stable.
Lighting
While ball pythons don’t need much lighting to survive, providing proper lighting to simulate a day-night cycle can help them maintain a healthy circadian rhythm.
In fact, most carnivorous animals can obtain their vitamin D from their prey, so they don’t necessarily rely on UVB light for that conversion. However, proper UVB can increase their blood vitamin D levels, which can stimulate their appetite and activity, and there is certainly no harm in providing it as long as you provide foliage and shelter for them to use as needed. If you decide to use UVB, go for bulbs with a percentage of around 5%.
Alternatively, regular daylight LED or fluorescent bulbs can provide sufficient ambient light for your ball python. Since these snakes originate from equatorial regions, they should ideally get about 12 hours of light throughout the year.
Ball Python Enclosure Ideas
Above we discussed several setups for ball python habitats. This section mainly focuses on how to arrange a ball python enclosure, covering things like substrate and decoration.
- Substrate - Ball pythons need a thick layer of substrate to cushion their bodies. It’s best to choose materials that retain moisture effectively and resist mold, such as coconut fiber, reptile carpet, organic topsoil, etc. Avoid using cedar shavings or poplar savings.
- Hiding spots - Ball pythons should have at least two hiding places in their enclosure, one at the warm side and another on the cool side. It’s best to fill these hides with damp peat moss to help them better shed their skin. Commercial animal hides, natural wood, or even cardboard can be used for this purpose.
- Sturdy branch or stand - Ball pythons love to explore and climb. Adding sturdy branches or stands can encourage exercise and increase their appetite.
- Water dish - Provide your ball python with a water bowl where it can drink and soak its entire body. Opt for a heavy water bowl to prevent it from being accidentally knocked over.
FAQs
Are ball pythons venomous?
No, ball pythons are not venomous and don’t have fangs. They are constrictors, which means they kill their prey by wrapping their body around and suffocating it, rather than injecting venom.
How long do ball pythons live?
Ball pythons can live a long time if properly cared for. In captivity, they’re expected to live 20-30 years.
Can I use a humidifier for ball python?
Yes, but you’d better connect the humidifier to a humidistat to maintain the ideal humidity of 50%-60%. High humidity can cause skin or respiratory infections.
