If you’re looking for a pet that will stay with you for life, a Russian tortoise may be a good choice. You may also hear it called the Afghan tortoise, Hove's tortoise, Central Asian tortoise, four-clawed tortoise, four-toed tortoise, and steppe tortoise, which may have something to do with its characteristics and origins. Regardless, Russian tortoises are native to dry steppe desert of Russia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Iran, and China, where the soil is mainly sandy and vegetation is sparse. While they are hardy and can live for many years, providing the proper care can greatly benefit their health and longevity. This Russian tortoise care sheet, written by an experienced reptile breeder, covers everything you need to know about Russian tortoise lifespan, habitat requirements, and more.
Description
The Russian tortoise, scientifically known as Agrionemys horsfieldii or Testudo horsfieldii, is a small species of tortoise. They have an earthy brown body coloration, a relatively round, olive-green to tan carapace, and stout forelimbs. Unlike most common five-toed tortoises, the Russian tortoises can be easily recognized by having four toes on each foot. Being friendly and inquisitive by nature, Russian tortoise enjoys interacting with people, and is usually active during the day, spending their time foraging for food, basking in the sun, and exploring its surroundings.
Russian Tortoises Lifespan
If properly cared for in a well-maintained captive environment, Russian tortoises can easily live for over 40 years. One owner on our reptile forums even claimed that the tortoise he inherited from his father has been with him for over 60 years. This means that keeping one is a lifelong commitment. Fortunately, they are generally easier to manage than larger tortoises, but they still require specific care and attention to prolong their lifespan.
Russian Tortoises Full Size
Russian tortoises can reach a maximum length of 8-10 inches (20-25 cm), with females slightly larger than males. Although they may appear quite small when young, being about 1 inch (2.5 cm) at birth, they usually reach full size within 20-30 years. When females are about 6 inches long, they are ready to start laying eggs.
Russian Tortoise Habitat Setup
To create a suitable and comfortable habitat for your Russian tortoise, it’s important to mimic the warm, dry conditions of their natural xeric bushland environment. Here’s how you should set up your Russian tortoise habitat.
Enclosure Size & Type
The larger the Russian tortoise enclosure, the better it is for their well-being. Each adult tortoise should have an indoor enclosure that is at least 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 1 foot high, which translates to 120cm x 60cm x 30cm in metric. But I would strongly recommend using a larger enclosure, which gives them room to explore, forage, regulate their body temperature, and engage in natural behaviors.
For the enclosure material, a tortoise table made from wood or a large plastic tub, or a PVC cage is recommended. It’s best to avoid glass enclosures or tanks, as they often lack proper ventilation and is difficult to maintain the proper temperature and humidity gradient, which will cause stress to your tortoise. Of course, if the climate permits, a secure outdoor enclosure can also be a great option.
Temperature Gradients
Mammals, including humans, are warm-blooded and are able regulate body temperature automatically through metabolic. In contrast, Russian tortoises are cold-blooded, which means they must move between different temperature zones to maintain their body heat. Therefore, you need to set up a temperature gradient in their enclosure:
- Warm zone: 85-90°F (29-32°C)
- Cool zone: 70-75°F (21-24°C)
- Basking zone: 95-100°F (35-38°C)
- Nighttime temperature: 65-70°F (18-21°C)
It is recommended to install WiFi thermometers and hygrometers in each zone so that you can monitor whether the temperature is within the comfortable range at any time. To maintain daytime temperatures, you can use basking lights, tank heaters, heating cables, or heat belts, but these heating devices must be connected with temperature controllers like INKBIRD ITC-308 to prevent injuries like burns.
Humidity
Russian tortoises are native to arid regions, so humidity in their habitat should be maintained at 30-50%. High humidity can lead to respiratory infections, which is why I recommend using a thermo-hygrometer instead of just a thermometer. The INKBIRD ITH-11-B Set is a great option, which happens to have 3 Bluetooth thermometers and hygrometers that can be connected to your phone via the included WiFi gateway. Plus, with an IP65 waterproof rating, these devices can withstand various conditions for effective temperature and humidity monitoring.
However, they do need moist hiding places - a cave or a box placed at both the warm and cool zones of the enclosure. The hiding places should be lined with a moist substrate, such as peat moss, which needs to be replaced regularly to avoid mold.
Lighting
Russian tortoises, like all herbivorous reptiles, need daily UVB light exposure to help synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium, which is also essential for preventing metabolic bone disease (MBD). If you keep your tortoise outdoors, no artificial lighting is necessary. If kept indoors, use a high-output linear fluorescent T5 tube and place it 12-18 inches from the basking spot, referring to the manufacturer's guidelines.
Even if the are still working, they should be replaced every 6-12 months to maintain adequate UVB output. To mimic natural seasonal changes, keep the lights on for 14 hours during summer and 10 hours in winter, with no lighting needed at night.
Substrate
For Russian tortoises, it's ideal to provide a natural, well-drained substrate that mimics their native habitat. A mixture of coir, organic topsoil, play sand, cypress mulch, about 4-6 inches deep, is a good choice. Avoid using granular litter such as pure sand, gravel, walnut shells, cat litter, etc., as tortoises love to nibble on their substrate and may accidentally ingest harmful particles.
Feces and urates should be cleaned up daily, replacing any contaminated substrate promptly. Additionally, the indoor substrate should be fully replaced every 3-6 months, depending on how thoroughly you clean.
Accessories
Decorations not only make your Russian tortoise enclosure more aesthetically pleasing, but also promotes physical activity, tapping into your pet's natural behaviors. Here are some accessory ideas:
- Hiding Places: Use materials such as cork bark, rocks, or reptile burrows to provide a hiding place in both the warm and cool zones.
- Water Dish: A shallow, sturdy ceramic dish that is large and deep enough for soaking, about as deep as the tortoise can stand with water "up to his elbows," flush with the substrate. Clean daily.
- Food Dish: A flat, clean surface such as slate or tile on which to place food.
- Basking Terrace: A flat rock or tile directly under a basking light helps conduct heat.
- Enrichment: Add natural elements such as rocks, logs, and edible plants for easy climbing and stimulation.
Russian Tortoise Diet & Nutrition
Russian tortoises are naturally herbivorous, which means they will eat plants and will even ingest any fresh or dried grasses, leaves, stems or flowers they come across during their daily foraging. They primarily feed on leafy greens and weeds, and for example, they love dandelion leaves the most.
To ensure they receive the right nutrition, their diet should be high in fiber while remaining low in protein and sugar. You can enrich their diet by adding endive, escarole, kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, chicory, mulberry leaves, grape leaves and other safe leafy greens. In addition, chopped cactus, carrots, sweet potatoes, winter squash and occasional edible flowers such as hibiscus, roses and nasturtiums can also be supplemented.
Avoid fruits and vegetables that are high in sugar, such as tomatoes and bell peppers, as well as vegetables such as iceberg lettuce, spinach and broccoli, which can interfere with calcium absorption.
If your Russian tortoise consider adding vitamin D3 to their diet. Plus, calcium powder should be sprinkled on their food several times a week.
Daily & Weekly Care Routine Checklist
Consistency is key to preventing health issues. Here is the checklist you should do to care for your Russian tortoise:
Daily:
- Provide fresh food and clean water.
- Spot clean feces and urates.
- Check temperatures (basking, warm, cool) and humidity.
- Observe tortoise behavior and appetite.
Weekly:
- Perform a thorough enclosure cleaning: remove old food, waste, and significantly soiled substrate.
- Disinfect the water dish.
- Soak the tortoise (2-3 times per week).
- Check and remoisten the humid hide.
Monthly or As Needed:
- Perform a full substrate change.
- Deep clean the enclosure and all furnishings.
- Trim overgrown beak or nails (often best done by a vet during a check-up).
Handling:
Minimize handling. When necessary, be gentle, support the entire body (including legs), and keep them low to a safe surface. They are not cuddly pets and stress easily.
Common Health Problems
Prevention through proper feeding is the best treatment, but sometimes sickness can still occur. The following are some signs of illness in your Russian tortoise and how to prevent it. If you notice any symptoms, make sure to consult a veterinarian promptly for the best care.
1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Soft, rubbery, or deformed shell, swollen limbs, difficulty walking.
Cause: Lack of UVB exposure and/or dietary calcium.
Prevention: Correct UVB lighting, calcium supplementation, proper diet.
2. Respiratory Infections: Wheezing, nasal discharge, mucus in mouth, lethargy, open-mouth breathing.
Cause: Chronic low temperatures, excessive dampness/drafts.
Prevention: Maintain correct temperatures and low humidity (except humid hide), avoid drafts.
3. Shell Rot: Soft, discolored (often white, yellow, or black), foul-smelling patches on the shell.
Cause: Fungal or bacterial infection, often from prolonged damp, dirty conditions or injury.
Prevention: Clean, dry substrate (except humid hide), clean environment, prevent shell damage.
4. Parasites:
Internal: Worms or protozoa causing weight loss, diarrhea, lack of appetite. Prevention: Acquire captive-bred tortoises, quarantine new animals, practice hygiene.
External: Mites visible on skin/shell, often around eyes/legs. Prevention: Quarantine new animals, inspect regularly.
5. Pyramiding: Abnormal, pyramid-like raised scutes on the shell (more common in juveniles).
Cause: Historically linked to low humidity and high protein diets, though research is ongoing.
Prevention: Provide humid hide, strictly avoid high-protein foods.
6. Impaction: Blockage in the digestive tract causing lethargy, loss of appetite, lack of feces.
Cause: Ingestion of inappropriate substrate (like sand or gravel), large foreign objects, or severe dehydration.
Prevention: Use safe, digestible substrates, provide regular soaks, feed on a slate.
FAQs
Do Russian tortoise hibernate?
Yes, Russian tortoises naturally hibernate in the wild for up to 9 months, typically from October to March. In captivity, they may hibernate for 3-12 weeks or not at all, depending on health and environmental conditions. Only healthy tortoises should hibernate. Improper conditions like temperatures below 2°C/36°F can lead to irreversible damage or death.
How big does a Russian tortoise get?
Adults typically reach 5–10 inches (13–25 cm) in shell length. Females are usually larger at 6-10 inches, while males average around 5-8 inches. Their growth is quite slow, often taking 20-30 years to reach their full size.
Can I keep multiple Russian tortoises together?
Russian tortoises are naturally solitary animals and do not need friends. Adult males, in particular, can exhibit aggressive behavior towards one another. If you're considering housing two tortoises, it's advisable to pair a male with a female to minimize conflicts.
How long can a Russian tortoise go without food?
Healthy adults can survive weeks without food during hibernation or seasonal dormancy. However, in active periods, they should eat daily. If an adult is fasting for an extended period outside of hibernation, it may be a sign of illness or stress, and requires veterinary attention.
What can Russian tortoises eat?
Russian tortoises are herbivores, feeding mainly on leafy greens and weeds. The following is a list of foods they can and cannot eat:
|
Carrots |
Yes |
|
Radicchio |
Yes |
|
Celery |
Yes |
|
Apples |
No |
|
Dandelion Greens |
Yes |
|
Broccoli |
No |
|
Blueberries |
No |
|
Cabbage |
No |
|
Bell Peppers |
No |
|
Zucchini |
Yes |
|
Dandelion Greens |
Yes |
|
Endive |
Yes |
|
Escarole |
Yes |
|
Bananas |
No |
|
Beans |
No |
|
Peas |
No |
|
Arugula |
Yes |
|
Strawberries |
No |
|
Bok Choy |
Yes |
|
Sweet Potatos |
Yes |
|
Spinach |
No |
|
Cucumbers |
Yes |
|
Corn |
No |
|
Asparagus |
Yes |
|
Grass |
Yes |
|
Squash |
Yes |
|
Lettuce (Romaine/Green/Red Leaf) |
Yes |
|
Iceberg Lettuce |
No |
|
Watermelon |
No |
|
Mushrooms |
No |
|
Turnip Greens |
Yes |
|
Cauliflower |
No |
|
Grapes |
No |
|
Grape Leaves |
Yes |
|
Mustard Greens |
Yes |
|
Aloe Vera |
No |
|
Bread |
No |
